China Food

Day coffee and night wine are the survival philosophy of this class of migrant workers


“ 
coffee lasts during the day, and drunk at night.
 ”
“Early C and late a” is one of the hottest words in the skin care industry in 2021, which refers to the use of skin care products containing vitamin C in the morning and vitamin A in the evening. Today, the word has been given a new meaning in the catering industry.
 
The new “morning C and evening a” that became popular among young people in this session refers to drinking coffee in the morning to wake up and alcohol to help sleep at night. It is the so-called “morning coffee and evening alcohol”, also known as “Japanese coffee and night wine”.
 
Chen Mandi, a freelance and part-time yoga teacher, is a typical “day coffee and night wine” person. He drinks coffee almost every morning and often drinks at night, sometimes half a bottle of white wine and sometimes mixes wine himself. In winter, she began to make hot wine.
 
Coffee and wine are a way for Chen Mandi to enjoy life. The monthly cost can reach about 2000 yuan. Although coffee and alcohol are stimulant drinks, she does not think that coffee and alcohol will cause too much stimulation to the body. She believes that exercise can help metabolism, and moderate drinking will only make her feel very comfortable.
 
There are not a few consumers represented by Chen Mandi in the first and second tier metropolitan areas. Since consumers have demand, many businesses began to think about fixing the “day coffee night wine” model and using the same store to meet the different needs of customers sooner or later. In Beijing and Shanghai, there were 82 and 128 results of “Japanese coffee night wine” on the public comments, and there were more than 3200 notes on “Japanese coffee night wine” in the little red book.
 
“The coffee shop is closed at night, so it’s better to sell wine; the bar is empty during the day, so it’s better to sell coffee.” Said the manager of Lieben, a “Japanese coffee night wine” store in Shanghai. Since the opening cost and rent of the store are fixed, the ultimate goal is to bring greater benefits to the store in a limited space.
 
Extending business hours and improving store utilization efficiency are the ideal business experience of most “day coffee and night wine” businesses, but there are still many challenges to do the same with coffee and wine.
 
Seesaw’s “day coffee night wine” store in Shanghai} photo: Yang Fan
“Migrant workers” who drink coffee to wake up and sleep with alcohol
 
Coffee is a daily necessity for many office workers. During the day, we rely on coffee to maintain the brain’s operation and complete our work. After work, about three or two friends go to the bar to have a drink, chat and listen to music. This is the way many young people deal with stress.
 
There is demand, there is supply. A new business format of “day coffee and night wine” has emerged in many cities across the country.
 
Beijing’s old Hutong coffee shop “big and small coffee” cooperated with a bar to carry out wine product business in all five stores in Beijing. In addition, big and small coffee also started to support the distribution service of night wine products. Many avant-garde cafes in new first tier cities such as Hangzhou, Chengdu and Changsha began to expand to wine, and even “day coffee and night wine” appeared in sinking markets such as Anshan, Qingyuan and Yanji.
 
In Shanghai, the business atmosphere of Japanese coffee night wine is more obvious. Coffee shops centered on Julu road have opened up night scenes and started the business of coffee + bar.
 
Julu Road, with a total length of 2290 meters, is a net red street gathering all kinds of Western restaurants, cafes, trendy shops and bars. This is the holy land of Wenqing’s clock out, with an endless stream of street photographers.  
 
During the day, the customer flow rate of Julu road coffee shop is large. The customers are usually well-dressed office workers. Most people are in a hurry and order a cup of coffee to take away; A few people sat down to chat after ordering, and some sporadic customers took laptops and regarded it as a temporary office.
  
After nightfall, the off-duty “migrant workers” were no longer in a hurry. They walked into the tavern, which was still a coffee shop during the day, dressed up with exquisite makeup, put a glass of wine on each person’s side, let the twilight mix with alcohol, and take a vacation for their body and mind.
 
Most day coffee night wine stores show two distinct ecosystems during the day and at night. For example, Lieben in park 758, Julu Road, has a minimalist industrial style during the day and a warm wind from 6:00 to 10:00 at night. After 10:00, the lights switch and the bar atmosphere comes out immediately. Customers can experience a variety of styles in one store to meet the different needs of day and night.
 
In a cafe called shimmer on Julu Road, an old customer of nearly 30 years old sits at the bar all year round – this is his second home. The entrepreneur in the human resources industry wears casual clothes and earrings. He is a typical trendsetter. Shimmer took charge of his life of “daily coffee and night wine” – coffee is his daily necessity during the day. If there is no work entertainment at night, he will come here for a drink and chat with strangers. He said that shimmer gave him the feeling of the coffee shop in the novel. He was very relaxed. After one or two times, “come here” became a habit.
 
Seamless switching between day and night
 
According to different evolutionary paths and emphases, “day coffee night wine” stores are divided into several types, including “coffee into wine”, “wine into coffee”, and “symbiosis” formed by the combination of wine and coffee.
 
Shimmer is a single coffee shop. It is also an early merchant who took the “day coffee night wine” bus. It started making coffee in 2018, and later developed coffee cocktails and gradually expanded to pure wine products.
 
During the day, shimmer’s coffee list provides two kinds of coffee – “return to nature” and “have fun” — return to nature “is a traditional coffee,” have fun “is a creative combination of coffee and wine, as well as non-alcoholic special drinks. After nightfall, coffee exits and wine becomes the protagonist. In addition to classic cocktails such as classic and golden soup, there are also creative special blending and exclusive customization on the wine list. In the 20 square meter store, the light shadow atmosphere on the small table is just like the store name shimmer (shimmer).
Lieben, not far from Julu Road, is the representative of “from wine to coffee”. Lieben was opened in September 2021. It is a “day coffee night wine” shop mainly focusing on bars. It opens at 1 p.m. and mainly deals in coffee; After 6 o’clock, the bartender went to work. At 10 in the evening, the lights changed and the overhead lights lit up, and the bar atmosphere came to us.
 
Lieben store manager said, “we combine coffee and wine, but it is not completely integrated, so the employees during the day and at night are also different. During the day, only the barista is making coffee, and at night it is mainly mixing wine. The atmosphere during the day is completely different from that at night. Every weekend or holiday, there will be DJs to play dishes, and the lights will change.”
 
Lieben photography at the time of entering the bar: Yang Fan
 
In contrast, the “NOWWA Norwalk coffee x THE BREWER addiction”, located in Xintiandi commercial circle, is simpler and more direct. This store is a combination of “nowwa coffee” and “the brewer bar”. The coffee shop and bar belong to two bosses, which operate independently, but share the same store, so it has such a long store name.
 
The coffee shop opens at 7 a.m. and only makes coffee during the day. During the two hours from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m., coffee and wine are supplied at the same time; After 8 p.m., the barista gets off work, lights and DJs go online, and the cafe is completely transformed into a bar.
 
In addition to the exploration of these monomer stores, giants are also gradually testing the water. In April 2019, Starbucks, the leader of the coffee industry, opened the first “Starbucks selection coffee · winery” in Shanghai Bund source, opening the mode of integrating coffee and wine. In addition to providing customers with wine, refined beer and classic cocktails, there are also creative cocktails manually prepared on site. In addition to Shanghai, similar stores also appear in Beijing, Chengdu, Tianjin, Shenzhen and other cities.
 
Seesaw, a chain coffee shop invested by hi tea and other institutions, has joined the track since 2021 and opened its first Japanese coffee night wine store in September. In this store located at 88 Tongren Road, seesaw maintains a consistent minimalist style. The retail of coffee and wine does not distinguish between time periods. However, it mainly focuses on fine coffee during the day and special blending at night. It mainly promotes three types: surface health preservation, perceptual melon eating and white humor. Among them, “surface health care” is the most popular. It takes “whisky + martinburgh red wine + lemon juice” as the formula, and finally sprinkles health medlar. The name and formula cater to the self mockery spirit of young people.
 
Seesaw told Caijing that the supplement of night scenes has always been the growth point concerned by seesaw. In April 2021, the brand tried a flash show of coffee night wine the next day, which was highly praised by many consumers, so it decided to choose a store to fix this model. At the same time, coffee and wine are synonymous with young life. The innovation of this model will help seesaw build a younger and more dynamic brand image.
 
Can “day coffee night wine” make money?
 
From Starbucks, the industry leader, to the entry of trendy brands, more and more cafes and bars try to combine the two to spark benefits. This phenomenon is particularly significant in Shanghai, which has something to do with the “inner volume” of Shanghai coffee industry.
 
Shanghai has become the city with the largest number of cafes in the world. According to the Shanghai coffee consumption index, there are 6913 cafes in Shanghai, far more than New York, London and Tokyo, including 4239 independent cafes, accounting for 61% of the total. In the increasingly fierce competition, “day coffee and night wine” may be a way to survive.
 
Seesaw also said that the main contribution of the night wine mode of Japanese coffee is to stimulate the vitality of coffee shops in the day, and use night wine to supplement the night scene to the operation to realize the extension of the scene.
 
The customers attracted by the tavern are those who like to catch up with the trend and have certain consumption ability, which highly coincides with the customers in the coffee market. The trend of “day coffee night wine” is in line with the consumption orientation of this customer group.
 
Some practitioners of “day coffee and night wine” said that there is a common phenomenon in the coffee and wine market: people who drink coffee in the morning do not necessarily drink at night, while people who drink at night must drink coffee in the morning. For coffee shops, the model of selling wine at night not only provides an opportunity to make money, but also, more importantly, more scenes, more opportunities to connect with customers. In the long run, as long as the customer retention rate is high, the transformation of income can be realized.
 
On the other hand, expanding business lines can also bring more profits. Du bin, vice president of Hanbo business group, said in an interview with Caijing that the combination of coffee and wine itself is an increment. The bar can make up for the vacancy of night operation of the cafe, and selling coffee can also fill the business flow of the bar during the day. He believes that integration will be the development trend of business in the future. Unless a brand achieves the extreme in a single industry, it will be the choice of more and more brands to accommodate more related industries in a fixed space and cost.
 
Shimmer and Lieben bosses respectively said that the profit margin of the day coffee night wine model is relatively considerable, which is higher than that of simply operating coffee or bars. Seesaw did not disclose changes in profit margins.
 
But not all cafes or bars can make more money in a short time by taking the “day coffee and night wine” mode. Some practitioners said that at present, there are few stores on the market that do equally well in coffee and wine. Most brands focus on coffee and wine products, but as long as one can drive revenue, the significance of the other is to drain and expand customers.
 
However, the scale of Japanese coffee night wine is still limited by the shortage of professionals. Shimmer’s boss told Caijing that making coffee and mixing wine are two different framework systems. It is difficult to find a barista who knows wine and a bartender who knows coffee. It is more difficult to find someone who can switch between the two at will.
In the text, Chen Mandi is a pseudonym
Authors: Yang Fan, Yang Liyun; Source: Banshu Caijing (ID: Banshu Caijing), reprint authorized. Reprint authorization and media business cooperation: Amy (wechat: 13701559246);
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