China Food

Humans hate cans, humans love cans

A6021 a6022


when I was a child, I saw such a scene. Ding Li and his friends, who had not yet made a fortune, took advantage of the confusion to pick up a leak from the wharf, took back several cans and took them home to share food with their old mother and their friends. Because there was no can opener, they could only break the can with a kitchen knife. The three people picked the meat with their hands and ate with relish. At that time, a small canned meat was a delicious meat that was difficult for everyone to touch every day, a novel imported product from a foreign country, an advanced representative, and an upper class life that they could not reach in this life.
some time ago, I saw some videos of up master unpacking domestic cans at station B. The unpacking types include braised beef, braised pork with plum dishes and seafood hot-pot/" 22375 rel="nofollow" target="_self">hot pot. They are rich in categories and look good. However, the sales volume of this kind of canned food is poor, and even many people do not know that canned food has launched so many categories.
online shopping is more and more developed, the types and tastes of canned food are more and more abundant, but fewer and fewer people eat canned food. For a hundred years, cans are still cans, but our lives change with each passing day. Perhaps, in a better life, there is not much room for cans.


the emergence of canned food can be traced back to the Napoleonic period.
at the end of the 18th century, Napoleon’s army conquered Egypt, swept France and pointed to Europe. Although the expedition to Europe was imperative, Napoleon realized an important problem – that war was actually supplies.
although there is no extreme terrain such as desert and rainforest in Europe, the supply problem caused by weather change and long-distance March is still the key. Fresh ingredients cannot be stored for a long time, the tension of war does not allow complex cooking, and long-distance marching requires a lot of calories. Cold, hunger, lack of calories and lack of vitamins are all military nightmares. It is difficult for soldiers to maintain their health by dry food in long-term bad conditions; When the wounded and patients encounter bad food, it is tantamount to death. A tired, hungry and malnourished army is not what France needs.
in order to solve the problem of food supply in the war, Napoleon established a military food committee to study the long-term preservation of food. As soon as the committee was established, it found a good way – outsourcing. The Committee issued a public notice offering a reward of 12000 francs to the people for the long-term food storage law. 12000 francs was a great wealth for people at that time. Seventeen yuan can let everyone learn stewed goose, and twelve francs can naturally drive the French to study technology. Among the countless French, including Chef Nicolas Appel.
there is no doubt that compared with many food experts, Apel, who has worked in pickle factories, wineries, candy stores and restaurants successively, and whose highest achievement is only a cook, does have a theoretical level of 100 million points less. But not knowing the principle does not prevent the craftsman from mastering the law.
at that time, many secret recipes for storing food had been circulated among the French people. Apel’s experience in food processing for a long time also gave him some experience in food preservation. He believes that sealing and heating are the secret recipe for long-term preservation of food. After ten years of research and many experiments, Apel produced the first generation of canned food with glass cans and wooden stoppers as containers. He described his canning method as follows:
“first, put the food you want to save into the bottle or jar; second, seal the opening of the container very carefully, because success mainly depends on the degree of sealing; third, put the sealed food into the boiling water in the double-layer steamer; finally, take the bottle out of the steamer at an appropriate time.”
this process is the origin of canning. As a result, Apel received a bonus of 12000 francs paid by the French government. Apel, who won the prize, first published the book “the art of preserving all kinds of animal and plant food for several years”. Then, with the bonus paid by the French government, the world’s first food cannery was opened in Paris to provide canned food for the French army.
half a century later, Pasteur revealed the truth of “food deterioration caused by microorganisms” through gooseneck flask experiment. Although Appel doesn’t know the truth of food corruption, the way he seals and heats cans just insulates and kills microorganisms. Thus, for the first time, mankind has acquired the ability to resist seasonal restrictions and natural corruption, and has taken an important step against nature.

Canned food spread on the European continent soon after its birth. As the saying goes, what cares about you most is always your enemy. So the first step was to go to the old enemy of France, the British.
because the glass can is fragile, the British businessman Peter Durand replaced the glass with tinned sheet on the basis of the original glass can, which gave birth to the famous tin can. Cans are therefore more transportable and avoid changes caused by sunlight. This technology patent was soon bought by Brian tangkin and John Hall, who jointly established the world’s first tinplate cannery. In 1851, the two men took this magical can that can “keep food indefinitely” to the first World Expo and introduced the can to the world.
but even in the world, canning, as a cutting-edge technology, can only be used where it is most needed – war. Almost all modern life changing technologies were born in war at the beginning. It is true that human beings love a good life, but they seem to be more keen to destroy the lives of others.
such a message often appears in network cold knowledge: canned food was invented in 1810 and can opener was invented in 1858. Although this message looks funny, there is nothing wrong with it. The reason is that cans are initially sealed with glass and wooden stoppers, and there is no need for a can opener. At the beginning, tinplate cans were also accurate for war. Soldiers did not lack knives. They could directly break the cans with a knife, and there was no need for a can opener. The real need for can openers happened after the large-scale conversion of canned food to civilian use in the 1950s.
products come when there is demand. It’s like canning was the product of war at the beginning. What you eat is not a can, but the history of human war.
Canning is inseparable from war, but canning has also changed war. European countries had the greatest global military power in the late 17th century, but almost all kinds of global wars broke out around the 19th century. Is it peace loving? No, because I can’t afford it.
as mentioned earlier, logistics is the biggest problem in expeditionary operations. Due to the trouble of transportation and storage, in the past wars, a large number of fresh food materials could not be transported to the front-line soldiers, and the soldiers could only eat dry food such as biscuits, bread, dried meat and so on. Food, especially meat food, transported far away from the country to the front battlefield is often moldy and inedible. At the same time, as fresh ingredients are more troublesome in both preservation and cooking, their priority in the logistics system is far lower than that of dry food. Therefore, fresh food materials become garbage, soldiers have no food to eat, and food materials are not cooked from time to time. The ancients said that before soldiers and horses moved, food and grass went first. Before the formation of the modern logistics system, it was often not the local armed forces that defeated the European invaders in Asia, Africa and Latin America, but the poor environment, poor logistics and backward medical care.
how do soldiers fight when they don’t have enough to eat? The classic story of sepsis and orange took place during the great voyage. After the era of great navigation, the power of the western world began to reach out to all parts of the world. From Africa to North America, from the Middle East to East Asia, from India to South Asia, Western colonial forces spread all over the world. The distribution of colonial interests brought war. But war and colonization are not the same thing. Colonization is a long-term transformation, and war is a short-term confrontation. Colonization can be through commerce, trade, regional migration, resource plundering, the establishment of base areas and long-term corrosion; However, timeliness is the priority of war, and a key battle may determine the whole war. The invention of
can directly rewrites the law established by human war for thousands of years. Whether it’s in the hot and humid tropical rain forest, or in the frozen land covered with flying snow, whether it’s a thousand mile March, or a hail of bullets, a can can can restore soldiers’ strength. Terrain, season and time will no longer form a dilemma for food, and sepsis will disappear invisible because of its existence. The grain, grass and transportation problems that plagued the generals in the past were easily solved. The emergence of high calories, vitamins, storage resistance, good transportation and cans raised the living conditions of soldiers by a dimension, reversed the pattern of European war, and extended all military operations almost indefinitely, even throughout the winter.
this is the food that really belongs to the battlefield. With the war, cans traveled all over the world and became one of the representatives of capitalism. The popularization of cans is a process of “adapting to industrialization”. When the war ended and colonization began, cans finally entered the civilian field. In a sense, cans do make people’s life better, but not everyone. But those who won the war.
The popularization of
cans is a process of economic development, industrialization and popularization, and the decentralization of military technology to civilian technology. Cans are just cans, just commodities. The United States with the same extreme industrialization will really develop the canned food culture to the extreme.
the history of the United States also began with colonization. After Columbus arrived in America, European powers began to colonize the American continent on a large scale. After a series of cruel struggles, North America finally got rid of the control of the patriarchal state, won independence and the United States was born.
but the establishment of the state cannot bring nature to its knees. At that time, the North American continent was still a wild land where deserts and snow fields coexisted, wild people and giant animals coexisted, a real wild land, and a restricted area for human beings. Snow field, desert, Tumbleweed; Mountain lion, scorpion, grizzly bear. In addition to fighting natural conditions in theory, you may also have to fight natural animals in physics. Slash and burn farming, cattle herding and sheep herding are the whole of life; Colonization, land reclamation and westward advance are the themes of the times. The biggest problem remains supply.
the first colonists basically gathered in the colonial base near the coastline. To develop resources, we must go deep inland, but there are no residential settlements and lack of supplies. In that age of low productivity, most Americans’ eating habits changed with the change of season and geographical location. Low productivity leads to the lack of food production capacity, food is not resistant to storage, and the characteristics of easy corruption further aggravate the lack of food.
there are three main sources of heat for human beings: carbon, water, fat and protein. They will be restricted by season, place of origin and time. The fish from the east coast are rotten in the West. go hunting? There are grizzly bears, gray wolves and pumas in North America. Who hunts is not sure. If we want to develop, we must have settlements. If we want to have settlements, we must develop them first. Dead cycle.
however, colonization, land reclamation, population migration, westward movement and urbanization have brought a large number of population influx and population growth, and the population needs food to support it. Adventurers and cowboys often need to ride horses, herd cattle and travel for months. In order to adapt to Western life, cowboys have their own tricks. Some people used ancestral dried bacon, some brought biscuits that were almost hard with dehydrated stones, and others modified the back half of the carriage into a “field kitchen” to cook between cattle driving. Among countless schemes, canned food that will not decay has become the best choice for adventurers.
although canned foods were not popularized until the end of the westward movement, the emergence of these canned foods filled the gap in cowboys’ recipes. If you have played the game “wild escort 2”, you must have seen the scene in which the grocery store in the game is filled with a wide range of canned food. Contrary to our impression of “no nutrition” and “unhealthy”, canned food is actually a better source of nutrition than most foods of that era.
any product is the product of the times. The same is true for cans.
in the second half of the 19th century, the urbanization of the United States led to the rapid growth of its urban population, exerting unprecedented pressure on the food supply system. Food should be transported from resource rich producing areas to cities and even remote areas. It should be easy to transport and the quality should not be damaged. This is demand. The mechanized mass production brought about by the industrial revolution provided productivity for the canning industry; The cold pressing template and automatic welding machine for electrolytic tin plating have sharply reduced the production cost of cans; Louis Pasteur provided a theoretical basis for sterilization; Railway, steam turbine and other new means of transportation; Food processing technology continues to push through the old and bring forth the new, becoming more and more mature; The invention of the can opener allowed cans to enter ordinary people’s homes; This is a condition.
demand + appropriate cost = excellent product.
hunger, cold, fatigue, malnutrition, food poisoning, time stood on the human side for the first time, helping those adventurers and scientists to tame the violent land together. With the help of cans, houses, bridges and railway tracks gradually appeared on the land of North America, and finally gathered into the shape of cities. More and more food is made into high-quality and cheap cans, and ordinary people in cities are beginning to enjoy the fruits of the reform brought by the food industry. Canned food met the needs of the times and began to spread in North America.

Even if it is not for the needs of the people, canned food is a more convenient way to obtain capital. How much food is rotten in the ground every year because of natural laws, decay and deterioration, and difficulty in transportation? countless.
now, under the industrialized combination of iron cans and railways, these sunk costs that could only rot in the ground in the past incarnate effective resources, which are used and sold all over the country. Industrialization has made the market extremely broad. Canning is a product that meets the needs of the times, so capital began to bet on canning.
in the 1850s, the first commercial canning factories opened in New York, Maryland and Delaware at the same time. Their main business scope was vegetables, fruits and oysters. Subsequently, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Iowa and California followed suit and established commercial cannery. Even Hawaii, an overseas enclave, began to make canned pineapples. This simple processing technology has made earth shaking changes in the way food is used. Food is no longer limited by region and season, and is no longer cursed by time. Salmon from the Pacific Northwest can be put on the table in inland Nebraska; Pineapples from the tropics can be enjoyed by sailors in Alaska’s extremely cold places; Peasant women and fishermen can seal the food at a specific time of the year and take it out for consumption after a few months or years – at that time, the food can not only be eaten, but also be beneficial to health.
cans open up a vast world where people can enjoy fresh food and new tastes. The food on the table is free from the law of natural decay because of canning. As the Canners emphasized, canned food turned the June garden into a January food storeroom, making it possible for the juice of summer peaches to flow to the American chin in winter.
As a revolutionary food initiative, the road to dominance of canned food is not smooth. At first, the most serious problem was trust. You need trust? Of course.
today, we can easily accept any kind of industrial packaged food in front of us, and accept the network, modern transportation and all kinds of subsequent novelty because we have experienced the discipline of modern industry and urban life for decades. International food companies, processed food, advertising, the Internet and modern transportation have become one of the key elements of our daily life. Each of us has firm confidence in the modern Internet industrial system. This discipline is so successful that we once forgot that human nature is afraid of new things.
in fact, people are full of doubts and fears about strange things. Tomatoes introduced into Europe in the 16th century were not eaten until the 18th century; The pepper introduced into China in the Ming Dynasty was gradually seasoned in the Qing Dynasty. The same is true of tomatoes, peppers and cans.
in the late 19th century before the popularity of canned food, due to the popularity of railways, most Americans just began to change their eating habits and try to accept food transported by railways. At this time, it is almost impossible for them to accept canned food in an instant. In the past, you ate fruit with leaves, dew and soil, and meat with bones and blood foam.
now, however, whether it’s salmon, peas or canned tomatoes, they don’t smell like dew in the morning or the original sea smell. From the meat, vegetables and fruits that can be seen clearly, to the meat, vegetables and fruits that are no longer naturally decomposed hidden in the opaque metal box. In the eyes of the general public, this is “anti nature” and “anti intuition”. It’s like a person who is used to yellow bananas and eats blue bananas.
anti intuition and anti nature inevitably bring resistance. The “unknown” represented by the opaque and non-public state of cans has led to a bottleneck in its sales. Consumers cannot understand that the origin of canned fish is a factory, how Canners stop meat decay, the large industrial farms, food processing plants, huge warehouses, nameless trains and the network of countless wholesalers and workers behind canned fish. They can’t trust canned food, they can’t trust industrialization.
from the tomatoes picked by oneself to the canned tomatoes sent into the packaging machine by an unknown hand in the factory. The whole content of industrialized food revolves around “forgetting”. Consumers can easily accept industrial products because they have firm confidence in the current industrial system. In other words, they don’t care what’s on the other end of the product.
the opaque nature of canned food, the insufficient penetration of canned food into the lives of the general public at the beginning of industrialization, and the insufficient attraction of the canned food industry in terms of product safety in the early stage led to a lack of confidence among consumers, which led to the slow growth of the American canned food market in the early stage.
after noting the key fact that consumers lack trust in canned food, Canners are committed to winning consumers’ trust. Improve the disinfection and packaging process, cultivate crops more suitable for cans, and instill the concept of safety and hygiene into the minds of consumers through various channels. All “advertisements” are carried out in the name of “creating better products” and “winning consumer trust”.
further, Canners began to cooperate with farmers to control pests, improve soil quality and cultivate crops more suitable for mass planting. Through cooperation with all walks of life, canned food manufacturers have gained the trust of the public at the social level. After more than half a century of slow, canned food finally became an important part of American food culture in the 20th century. The public began to get used to the existence of canned food, no longer excluded canned food, and summarized it as a part of daily life. The popularity of canning, a product of “great industrialization”, marks the end of the era of the wild west.
in the 1930s, the United States ushered in the great depression. The stock market collapsed, the unemployment rate soared, and the whole capitalist world instantly fell from heaven to hell. Bankruptcy has become a nightmare for everyone. Countless Americans can’t even maintain basic food and clothing, and have to rely on government relief to make a living.
during this period, canned food became the safest stored food in the era of food shortage because of its economic benefits and long shelf life, and began to become a regular guest on the American family table. Canned food brings closer to a “bottom-up life”. The rich don’t eat, and the poor can’t afford it. At this time, canned food seems to be tailor-made for people with a certain income, providing a just good life. It can harvest the largest number of people and make the most money.
all the characteristics of iron cans, durable, military supplies and cans are in line with the public’s demand for security in the period of economic downturn. Under the influence of economic and social expectations, cans have become a symbol of safety. In this context, canned food has welcomed the superstar in family history – Canned lunch meat.
in the context of the great depression, American Meat giant Hormel company launched a low-cost meat processing food for housewives – Canned spicy ham (HSH). Perhaps it is too awesome to name, or perhaps Roosevelt’s new deal has saved too many families. The first generation of canned lunch meat has been reacted quietly in the market and suck out of the market soon. Hormel company, in the name of “pork shoulder ham” (spam), pushed the canned lunch meat into the market again. This time, spam cans quickly opened the market with low prices. But it was not the economic crisis that brought it to the altar, but the more terrible thing, the canned old friend – war.
World War II broke out.

this war, whose main battlefield was concentrated in Asia and Europe, was originally not related to the United States as far away as the American continent. But Japan’s wrong decision opened the sleeping war machine.
on December 7, 1941, the U.S. military in Pearl Harbor, Hawaii woke up in an unprepared explosion. More than 350 Imperial Japanese naval aircraft attacked Pearl Harbor Naval base, killing 2400 Americans and wounding 1250 others. The whole country was shocked. The Pacific War broke out, the United States participated in the war, and the war machine started in full swing. What does this war have to do with canned food?
remember, before the soldiers and horses moved, food and grass went first. It can be said that the existence of this war led to the full popularity of canned food in the western world. At the beginning of the war, the military food provided by the U.S. military was an old friend of European and American soldiers, air dried bacon. Although this long-standing military grain has a long shelf life, its taste and taste are not satisfactory. The military soon set its sights on the lunch meat Canners with lower prices, higher calories, ready to eat and no special preservation. Although canned lunch meat doesn’t taste like meat, it’s much better than dry and hard air dried bacon.
with its excellent product features, Canned lunch meat soon won the U.S. military (note that it is the US military, not the US soldiers) who have become the designated military rations and followed the footsteps of the US military to embark on the stage of history. From the Japanese islands to inland Europe, where the US military appears, there will be empty shells of canned lunch meat. Although the US soldiers soon got tired of this canned lunch meat and ridiculed it with contempt such as disguised meat and water meat, they did not eat it at noon Meal meat really provides the nutrition and calories needed by the U.S. military. Throughout World War II, the U.S. military consumed 150 million pounds of lunch meat.
we should know that the economic crisis before the war did not just happen in the United States, but spread to the whole capitalist world. Before the war, there were starving economic refugees everywhere. After the war broke out, the Allies did not have as strong economic strength and resource conditions as the United States, so that all soldiers could afford canned meat. Even the Soviet Union at that time could only provide soldiers with black lieba made of wheat skin, germ and all kinds of coarse grains because of fighting with Germany in the West. Countless Allied soldiers were still hungry in the cold wind, bitter snow, gunfire and rain. It is conceivable how delicious canned lunch meat, the garbage in the mouth of American soldiers, will be for soldiers of other countries who do not have enough to eat. In fact, lunch meat did contribute a lot to the whole alliance.
after the beginning of World War II, the wartime supplies of the United States to the Soviet Union included the holmel lunch meat can called “Roosevelt lunch meat”. Khrushchev, a world-famous corn lover, once said bluntly: “without spam lunch meat, our soldiers will have no food to eat.” After the
Pearl Harbor incident, Japanese living in Hawaii were banned from fishing at sea, and canned lunch meat became their protein substitute; At the same time, South Korea’s famous “army hot-pot/" 22375 rel="nofollow" target="_self">hot pot” is formed by cooking expired lunch meat, leftover vegetables and kimchi left by the U.S. military. The turbulence of the world situation made canned food popular both inside and outside the battlefield.
on the battlefield, it is necessary for military supplies, and outside the battlefield, it is an emergency. Historian Philippe Fernando wrote in the taste of civilization: “the power of war can penetrate cultural barriers and promote the internationalization of food. The army stepping into other people’s land is the big medium of cultural influence.” Therefore, the British still love to eat spam canned meat after World War II, which is a wartime American aid.
former British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher wrote in her memoirs: “I remember the first day after Christmas in 1943, a friend visited… We opened a can of lunch meat, and we also had some lettuce and potatoes. The friend said happily: lunch meat and salad are too rich!” From the American war to the end of World War II, canned lunch meat brought enough heat to the whole western world to support them to victory.
after World War II, the canned lunch meat that led them to victory became the symbol of the United States, the symbol of American life and the American values of “freedom and strength”. The war is over and the peak of canned food is about to begin.

after the end of World War II, military Canners lost their biggest customers. Instead, they focused on the civilian market and invaded the civilian consumer market under the banner of “faster and more nutritious”. The invention of the pop can makes “instant food in open cans” a daily routine.
after the Second World War, the economic take-off of the United States and the rise of cities have brought a large number of urban people living in urban apartments and with a fast pace of life. They desperately need the help of cans. But what they need is not “fast”, but “delicious”.
when Nestle investigated the instant coffee market, it found that “cooking good coffee” is a symbol of virtuous and hardworking housewives. In order to reduce consumers’ sense of guilt, FMCG food in this period no longer focuses on “fast and easy”, but emphasizes taste and the benefits of saving time. They focus on the promotion of delicious and healthy, instead of emphasizing convenience and quickness. Under the banner of “delicious and healthy”, countless Americans throw themselves into the arms of canned and frozen food and enjoy the American life of opening cans.
although the product itself has not changed, the change of advertising language has brought the loyalty of countless users. Ovens, cans and microwave ovens reshaped the dinner table in the United States. The whole food industry erupted intensively in the post-war decade, allowing Americans to offer their hands on the kitchen table. They call the behavior of heating cans and microwave freezing pizza “cooking”, and behind this cooking is more than 100 years of market cultivation. In the end, cans become a food ingredient, a cooking method, not a simple food storage method.
canned milk made during the civil war added sugar to the milk to prolong the shelf life, which contributed to the unique sweet milk. Canned sardine brings a softer, juicy taste than fresh fish because of long-term liquid immersion. Canned peas, canned salmon and canned potatoes have become a new era food material distinguished from natural food materials. People shuttle through the steel jungle, devote themselves to work and have no time to cook. Large companies take over this division of labor through the tentacles of microwave ovens, spit drivers, cans and refrigerators, so as to provide decent food for the people who have created the opportunity of capitalist free world economy.
the United States has formed an era spirit of full access to business life. The popularity of canned food is the best footnote to the post-war economic rise of the United States. This national can mania was pushed to a climax in the hands of star artist Andy Warhol. The man who has used canned Campbell soup as breakfast for 20 consecutive years presents 32 neatly arranged Campbell soup cans in his can of Campbell soup. These 32 cans not only represent the almost identical life of the public under the wave of food industrial consumption, but also symbolize that industrialized food has broken the class barrier and provided the same nutrition and calories for different groups of society. Hollywood, Coca Cola, canned food, these different cultural elements together constitute the strongest economy in the world, the United States of America. It represents a happy life that the whole world yearns for.
is the integration of economy and culture; Behind the can is the game between capital and public opinion.
let’s look back a hundred years ago. When canned food entered public life for the first time, people refused because they could not believe it, and capital chose technological renewal and trust building. So, after that? Did capital withdraw from the mental affectation of consumers? No, it’s getting worse.
as Canners found that advertising had a great impact on consumers, after the product technology became more and more stable, they turned to marketing, advertising and flattery politics. To ensure a steady flow of money, we need both people’s hearts and power. They have built a huge network of relationships among fishermen, farmers, doctors, scientists, research institutions, government agencies and the media. The image of farmers is used to influence the mind, scientific research is used to endorse, the media is used to expand influence, and the government is used to ensure policies – this is all the foundation of the food industry.
in the “big industry” system of the United States, there will be one or two industry giants in each industry standing on the commanding height of the industry, controlling the industry, catering to politics and making a lot of money. This role is often regarded as the opposite of public opinion in conspiracy theory, such as McDonald’s, Coca Cola and Unilever. In the canning industry, the name of this big Mac is the Grocery Manufacturers Association.
, a trade association with nearly 300 members, gathers almost all major food manufacturers in the United States. Relying on huge social influence and huge political contributions, it intentionally or unintentionally affects the policies, scientific cognition and consumer access mechanism of the whole United States and even the whole world.
was shaken again in the 1960s and 1970s, and the public was worried about the chemical pollution and potential health problems of canned food. Manufacturers resist through advertising, marketing and political lobbying. In this process, Canners unlock the skills of social science and political science, not only in biology and food science, but also affect consumers’ cognition in an all-round way.
entering the 21st century, Volkswagen on BPA The fear of (a widely used industrial compound, one of the materials for can lining) began to threaten the development of the can industry. Even though BPA has been proved to pose a health threat to human body, big capital still intervened in the relevant regulation through its leading research. A study building and analyzing the overall food system in the United States clearly shows that it promotes people to choose processed food The of products is not only the personal orientation of consumers, but also the invisible “tricks” of consumers play an important role.
this may have been a conspiracy theory in the past, but now it has become a consensus in the new era. People cannot accept iron cans, and capital emphasizes origin and health; People’s income is declining, and capital emphasizes cheap and convenient; When the economy takes off, capital emphasizes the way of life. The American canned food association is a well deserved protagonist in the history of modern canned food development. Its existence itself is the proof that capital affects the development of industrial food system. Even the development history of canned food in the United States is the development history of capital affecting industrial food.
after reading all this, we look back at the product of “canned food”. The core value of canned food is to solve two problems: storage and transportation. That is, out of season food consumption and long-term food consumption. From war, the food of adventurers and pioneers has become the choice of the public with the process of history. This is mixed with the needs of the times and the game between capital and public opinion. The rise of
cans is profitable. Canned food is popular because of mature technology and low cost, which can make capital make money. Canners make consumers accustomed to industrialization, opacity and fast life, which imperceptibly change their cognition and affect their life. Then, there are a series of events of canning, market and public relations after World War II, visualization and safety.
and capital influences the market through psychology, marketing and politics, and finally creates modern American canned culture. On the other hand, the development of canned food promoted the process of American urbanization in the westward movement at the end of the 19th century;
promoted the development of American agriculture, promoted employment, and created American industrialized agriculture to a certain extent; In the great financial recession of the 20th century, it became the food source for countless American families; It became one of the influencing factors of Allied victory in World War II; Become part of shaping American popular culture in modernization. The irreplaceable nature of canned food is that the European and American markets are vast and sparsely populated, with high labor costs and the demand for food storage. Apart from a limited number of densely populated big cities, there are few areas suitable for the development of takeout. Canned food is an inevitable demand. As far as Americans are concerned, this kind of food category that has existed for hundreds of years is no longer a way of diet, but a kind of food material and a way of life. A way of life that conquers nature and tames time, forgetting everything in the face of industrialization and investing in mechanized mass production.
in the past, under the threat of war, wilderness and beasts, cans undoubtedly brought a “better way of life”. But now, in front of the Internet, modern logistics and off-season planting technology, is this lifestyle really better?
not necessarily. Do you have a choice? There seems to be no choice.
many people will compare the eating habits of the United States and China and ask why the Chinese don’t like canned food. In the past, Chinese people didn’t eat cans because they had no choice. Now, Chinese people don’t eat cans because they have a choice.
China’s canning industry started in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China. The first canned food enterprise in China is the Shanghai Taifeng canned food company founded by industrialist Wang poru in Shanghai in 1906. Using the product trademark of “Shuangxi”, it mainly produces canned foods of poultry, meat, fish, fruits and vegetables, as well as traditional candied candy. Taifeng food company’s products participated in the world fairs held in Turin, Italy, San Francisco and Philadelphia, and won many awards. It was the leading canner in China at that time.
objectively speaking, the origin of China’s canning industry is not too late. But without a stable environment, we can’t develop a complete industry. Because of the war, the development of canning industry was interrupted.
the organized development of China’s canned food industry began in the 1950s after the founding of the people’s Republic of China. Compared with European and American countries where the canning industry has lasted for more than 150 years, the starting point is quite low. However, since the reform and opening up in the late 1970s, China’s economy has taken off, the process of urbanization has accelerated, and China’s domestic can production and consumption have continued to rise. Despite its backward start, today’s Chinese cans crush the world with production capacity. China is currently the largest producer of canned food in the world. The annual output of canned food exceeds 10 million tons, accounting for about one quarter of the global average annual output.
many people will feel very strange here. The development of China’s canning industry is so strong, why is it rarely consumed? Is it an illusion? No, compared with Europeans’ annual per capita canning consumption of 54 kg, Americans’ annual per capita canning consumption is 90 kg. The annual per capita consumption of canned food in China is only 3 kg.
because China is a big canning producer, but not a big canning consumer, China’s canning is an external industry. At present, China is the largest canned food exporter in the world, with an annual export volume of 2.5-3 million tons. The main export markets are Europe, America and Japan. Among them, the United States, Japan, Russia, Germany and Spain account for about half of China’s canned food exports.
infrastructure mania, the whole industry chain, economic take-off, with strong industrial production and industrial product output. Canned food is always the product of industrialization. However, in the last era, the symbol of industrialization was on the other side of the ocean; In this era, the symbol of industrialization has fallen on us.
this moment, that moment.

Why can’t China, which ranks first in the canning capacity, become a big canning consumer? When I was a child, I was so eager for canned fruit. I felt extremely extravagant when I ate a can of fruit. Finally, I have the conditions, but now I regard it as my shoes? The key is the word “luxury”.
in terms of eating habits, Chinese people prefer “fresh” and “hot food”, and it is difficult to quickly accept industrial products due to the lack of long-term discipline. But habits can be changed. The bigger problem is consumption.
unlike the United States, which received the dividends of World War II, China’s economy did not take off until the 1980s, and national consumption did not rise so rapidly. At that time, canned food was not so much a substitute for a fast-food diet as a snack choice with mystery and freshness, an occasional luxury and a gift for visiting relatives and friends.
the root cause is the mismatch between consumption power and products. To be reasonable, China actually had the opportunity to develop its own “canned culture”. Friends in the north will never forget the canned yellow peaches and canned oranges necessary for visiting relatives and friends; Guangdong friends must also remember the canned Douchi dace they used to eat, and the sentence “canned sweet bamboo is sweet and delicious”; The canned lunch meat in Shanghai Meilin is also one of the hot-pot/" 22375 rel="nofollow" target="_self">hot pot dishes that many people must order until now. Today, countless new consumer brands are making canned food. These canned foods are gradually integrated into life as a local feature, and gradually become a habit and a culture.
today, no matter how old they are, many children in Northeast China want to eat canned yellow peaches as long as they are sick; As long as many Cantonese go back to their hometown, they like white porridge with Douchi dace for breakfast. Over time, with the improvement of economic level, the further development of urbanization and the acceleration of the pace of public life, canned food will become a habit to adapt to the corresponding pace of life. After habit, culture will come into being. Like fresh? Not necessarily. Maybe I just don’t want to change.
but time will change everything. In other words, habits are built up by time. Just have time. As long as there is time, the spring of canned food will come. Yes, what is missing is time.
but I didn’t have time to wait for the greenhouse planting and takeout. Greenhouse planting technology has brought a stable supply of fruit and food, and the popularity of takeout allows the public to enjoy food conveniently, quickly and anytime, anywhere. However, in the era of four seasons supply of fruits and door-to-door delivery of takeout, the existence of cans is meaningless.
why is there still a market for canned food in Europe and America? Because greenhouse planting and takeout can not solve the problems of sparse land and labor cost. Foreigners don’t eat takeout because there is no takeout except in densely populated cities such as New York and Washington. Even if there is takeout, it can’t be delivered to the door within an hour. The supermarket is at least an hour away from home. It is impossible to purchase every day. Buy it once a week. Before you finish eating, the vegetables are rotten. In this case, canned food and quick-frozen food are more convenient choices.
nowadays, China is the largest can producer and can exporter in the world. But apart from the lunch meat on the hot-pot/" 22375 rel="nofollow" target="_self">hot pot side dishes, few people eat a lot of canned food in their daily life. On the surface, it is because of eating habits and the lack of corresponding culture, but in essence, in today’s China, due to the development of productivity, there is no niche for canned food. No, it doesn’t mean “missing”, but more likely because “not needed”.

欧美罐头文化普及的过程,实际上是工业化、现代化的过程,是资本的逐利恰好和罐头的发展走上了同一条路。只不过这条路,西方用了近两百年的时间,中间经历了数次战争,西进运动,大工业化,世界大战。而留给中国罐头的时间,却只有几十年。

食用罐头的时间太短,影响太浅,连生存环境都被外卖和大棚水果,冷链物流取代,罐头没有立足之地。罐头“不健康”、“防腐剂”的问题欧美也有,但欧美通过长时间沉淀,用营销、推广、游说来解决问题、覆盖问题。大众对罐头“不健康”、“防腐剂”的看法以及对新鲜热食的渴望,确实妨碍了罐头的推广,但更重要的是,中国没有给罐头时间。
国内罐头所经历的一切问题,本质上是因为工业化时间太短。我们用极短的时间,完成了工业化,自然留给大众适应的时间也就变短了。短到我们没来得及适应工业化,就走进了互联网;短到我们还没来得及适应罐头,就吃上了外卖。罐头是工业化的产物。而外卖是互联网+工业化的产物,是极致的效率。从本质上而言,外卖不一定比罐头更好,但效率一定比罐头更高。
现在,我们有了外卖,有了当天送上门的水果,但西方依然习惯吃罐头。不同的是,我们在罐头和外卖中选择了外卖,他们只能在罐头中选择罐头。美国的公路网络依然强悍,美国的工业化农业依然很强。但我们有了更好的选择。罐头不好吗?当然好,但罐头的好,已经属于上一个时代。快速发展的中国不需要罐头,美好的生活也不需要罐头。罐头活在网络博主的开箱视频里,活在外贸产业中就挺好。我们不是没有罐头,我们有,但不需要。不是说吃外卖一定比吃罐头好,而是有的选比没得选好。

所以我们爱罐头也好,恨罐头也罢。在这个飞速发展的时代,或许已经不重要了。

Full text reference sources are as follows:

【1】 . canned food: a history of food safety for the American public. Shanghai Academy of Social Sciences Press

【2】 No food has ever defined the times, but fast food has done it. 36 krypton. 36 krypton friends

【3】 Why are cans, once a symbol of the prosperity of the food industry, far from your life. Curiosity Institute. Zhu Kailin

【4】 Analysis on the development status of canning industry, why Chinese canning has become the favorite of foreigners

【5】 The war gave birth to the darling of the times — the development history of cans. Invention and innovation. Li Tianjun

【6】 . Chinese cans, want to make a comeback. 36 krypton. Chinese business strategy

【7】 You can’t afford this low-end food in wartime. 36 krypton. Earth knowledge Bureau

【8】 The Chinese surrounded by delicious food also have a can complex. 36 krypton. 36 krypton’s friends

【9】 Can the long hidden cans become the next explosion point of the “new wave” of food? 36 krypton

【10】 “Unknown origin” and “unknown time”: how can cans subvert the connection between people and food? Beijing News

【11】 Why does “Chinese canned food” monopolize overseas, but its sales in China are flat? It is not liked by Chinese people

【12】 The past and present life of canned food. Food safety and regulations. Wu Yue

【13】 The birth of cans has nothing to do with science. Tom standidge

【14】 Taste of civilization: the history of human food. New Century Press. Philips Fernando amesto

【15】 Napoleon Bonaparte

【16】 . prison economics. Tiger smell. CITIC Publishing Group ©.

【17】 . canned food that has always been misunderstood. Chinese and foreign women’s and children’s health. Liang Zheng

作者:半佛仙人;来源:半佛仙人(ID:banfosb),转载已获得授权。
转载授权及媒体商务合作:Amy(微信号:13701559246);
加入社群:Cherry(微信号:15240428449)。


iSEE创



第四届iSEE全球食品创新奖报名通道已开启。由Foodaily每日食品于2018年发起,iSEE创新奖以商业生态视角挖掘并表彰全球产品/品牌/技术/企业/人物的创新典范,通过媒体传播、创新寻访以及社交体验营销等系列活动,向行业、商业及消费者展示创新风貌,向世界展示中国创新,推动海外与本土创新力的交融,为中国新消费赋能。这里不仅有竞技,更有内容、有传播、有体验、有社交,期待每一个食品企业的参与!(点击图片查看详细介绍)



相关阅读



食品人都“在看”

Read the original text

Similar Posts

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.