China Food

Has become a classic red bean bread, what can be changed?

 
红豆在日本烘焙中的应用

 

红豆是日本人的灵魂食品。日本人发明的红豆面包也是灵魂食物。在点心面包排名前 100 位中,红豆面包占了 16%。——2016 年度甜面包类数量排名

The description quoted above accurately expresses the deep feelings of the Japanese for red beans. After all, it can be called soul food and is popular all over the country. It is also a proper national food.
today, let’s go straight to the topic and talk about the application of red beans in Japanese baking varieties. Naturally, it is inseparable from the Japanese preference for red beans and the Japanese national bread – wine red bean bread 👇
○ red bean bread in Kimura house, foodie
1、 How much do the Japanese love red beans? 2. Red bean bread, which has been popular for a century and a half. 3. The application of red beans in other baked goods
image
Red beans used to be a symbol of wealth and a high-grade food
red beans and bean paste stuffing were introduced into Japan and South Korea from China. Lin Jingyin, as a monk from China to Japan in the Muromachi era, is said to have brought not only steamed bread, but also the first person to make red bean stuffing in Japan.
in ancient Japan, there was no sugarcane or sugar beet. Granulated sugar, an imported product, was a luxury and did not circulate as much as it does today. Therefore, the Japanese generally eat two kinds of sugar, one is the maltose syrup extracted during wheat germination, and the other is the sap taken from the stem of Pueraria lobata (Parthenocissus).
○ muji. Lin Jingyin cooked the red beans very sweetly with the sap of Pueraria lobata. Www. 18fu. 670 years ago, Lin Jingyin was entrusted to provide refreshments at the tea party. In order to make diners happy, he thought of making red bean sweet stuffing with cabbage. Later, it evolved into an elegant thing to eat bean paste. Most of them are eaten as snacks in upper class society. In addition, sweet bean paste is expensive, so bean paste is also a symbol of wealth in the eyes of ordinary people. The popularity of
bean paste will reach the middle of the Edo era. In 1727, Tokugawa Jizong began to produce granulated sugar in Japan. Bean paste, which was originally a high-grade food, also began to spread to the common people. The popular gongs, cherry cakes and cypress cakes in this period all used bean paste stuffing.
○ bean paste made in the shop, photo – Masako Nakamura
. In addition, since ancient times, the red of red beans has also been regarded as a color that can ward off evil spirits. “Red” is a color that symbolizes life such as sun, fire and blood. It is considered to have the power to expel evil Qi. It is believed that this power can be absorbed into the body by eating red beans.
in today’s scientific society, this tradition is still preserved. January 15 of each year is called “little first month” and “little new year” in Japan. People still keep the custom of eating red bean porridge.
all these foreshadowed the application of red beans to bread, and finally achieved a Japanese national bread – wine red bean bread.
○ red bean bread in Kimura house, foodie
あんぱん,anpan
Kimura house, relying on wine to grow red bean bread, has become a national brand
Mr. takegu Guangsi also briefly mentioned the history of Kimura wine growing red bean bread in bread science. The official website of Kimura house also has a more detailed introduction. Through the sorting of various materials, we will start to talk.
The origin of red bean bread
during the Meiji Restoration, Kimura’s hereditary position as a samurai disappeared, so together with his second son, yingsaburo, he invited Meiji, who baked bread at the Portuguese in Nagasaki, to set up “Wenying hall” in Riyin town. But about nine months later, all the shops burned down because of the fire in ribiyu. In the first month of three years later (1870), they moved to Ginza, Tokyo, and changed their name to “Kimura house” to open again. Yingsanlang took over as president.
○ after taking office, yingsanlang began to devote himself to the development of wine red bean bread until 1874. Yamaoka Tiezhou, then the emperor’s attendant, made friends with the Kimura family. After tasting wine and red bean bread, he thought it tasted very good and suggested that it could be dedicated to the emperor.

is a plaque inscribed by a mountain iron boat, but the original trace was destroyed during the Kanto earthquake
was in the Meiji era, not everyone would immediately accept Western civilization because of the national call, but “wine planting red bean bread” witnessed the reconciliation between the new government and the old shogunate. In 1875, the Meiji emperor and empress (symbolizing the new era) came to the old · Tokugawa mansion (symbolizing the old era) on their way to enjoy the cherry blossoms. During the dinner, The “cherry blossom red bean bread” (red bean bread is also a symbol of the new era) presented by the Tokugawa family to Kimura house was favored by the emperor and Empress and included in the imperial palace. The “delicious” red bean bread in the mouth of the emperor and empress soon spread and became popular throughout the country as a “taste of civilization”. The day of tribute on April 4 became the day after “Red bean bread day (day)”.
○ red bean bread day, Kimura House official website
Method for making wine red bean bread
When
bread was introduced into Japan, commercial yeast had not yet achieved industrial production in the west, so bread was mostly fermented as a by-product of brewing beer, resulting in a very sour taste. In order to change the current situation, Kimura family thought of wine steamed bread and began to try to apply wine in bread. Wine is a kind of fermentation left in the process of making wine in Japan. It is produced by the joint action of rice, koji, yeast and lactic acid bacteria in the air. It has a fragrant aroma. It tastes softer when added to bread, and has a good moisturizing effect.
up to now, the wine varieties of Kimura house have been handed down from generation to generation. This kind of autotrophic fermentation species is difficult to produce stably due to the influence of air temperature and humidity. Therefore, the breeders in Kimura house should observe the wine species all day and maintain the quality by controlling the indoor temperature and humidity. Red bean bread dough will also manage and adjust the fermentation state with the accuracy of temperature 0.1 ℃ and humidity 1%.
○ wine red bean bread dough, Kimura House official website
Among the cherry blossom red bean bread, red bean chooses red bean from Shisheng area of Hokkaido, and uses the unique bean cooking method of Kimura house to stimulate the unique red bean flavor and rich aroma; There are also eight cherry trees pickled in Kanagawa stores. They are pickled with plum vinegar for one year and salted. Finally, they are not filled with bean paste, but placed in the belly button of bread.
○ salted cherry blossoms, Camelia Co.jp
in Kimura house, poppy seeds will be interspersed on the top of the bread wrapped with red bean paste, and white sesame seeds will be interspersed on the bread wrapped with red bean paste. Such a custom is still preserved.
(Note: Japan stipulates that only poppy seeds can be imported, and completely cooked, dried and heated poppy seeds are considered harmless. Poppy seeds are often used as spices in the use of German bread.)
Become national bread
At the beginning of the invention of
, the wine type red bean bread dough was 25g and the filling was 25g. The price was 5%, which was equivalent to a bowl of buckwheat flour. The price was not cheap (= 120 yen now), but it was still popular rapidly because of the royal title and friendly taste and flavor.
○ at present, some kinds of wine on sale are red bean bread. In addition to the advertisements in newspapers during the Meiji period, the gongs and drums team (チドンンンンわンンンわわンンわンンンンン12531. Kimura house also began to carry out publicity in the streets with the help of gongs and drums, and also launched advertising songs, emphasizing that it is warm and freshly baked, as well as Western bread, which is associated with civilization, and even exaggerated publicity can prolong life. Since then, Kimura house has become the representative of bread in the hearts of Tokyo residents during the Meiji period.
○ during the Meiji period, the key words of civilization included red bean bread (あんぱんんん) in addition to newspaper, postal service, gas lamp and other words. After the success of Kimura’s advertising strategy, Kimura began to expand stores throughout the country. In its heyday, there were stores in Nagoya, Osaka and Hokkaido. Until after World War II, large bread companies such as Yamazaki began to compete with them, and the market share of Kimura house was slowly weakened. However, its red bean bread has always been regarded as a typical representative of Japanese sweet bread, which has been used for reference by the baking industry, opening the rich application of red beans in bread.
adzuki bean!
Rich application of red beans in baking category
when giving an example of the application of red beans in baked goods, we might as well take a look at some tips on making bean paste shared by people in the industry.
Some tips about bean paste
according to the sharing on the official website of Muji Japan (yes, Muji), the production of bean paste is not difficult, nor does it need to soak like other beans all night, and even the process of pouring out the soup considered astringent when cooking red beans can be omitted. Because tannin, the source of astringency, is actually a polyphenol compound, which is beneficial to human body. If you pour out the soup, many polyphenols will also be thrown away. Dr. Kato Chun, who is called “Dr. red beans” in northern Japan, found that frying red beans before cooking them can effectively eliminate the astringency. Because when heated to about 180 ℃, tannin molecules will bond and gather, but taste buds can’t taste them, so they can’t feel the astringency.
○ the bean paste made in the shop, figure – Nakamura Chengzi
, then move it to the pot and add water to cook for about 30 minutes, focusing on the amount of water added. Red beans can absorb 2.2 times their own weight of water. If they are boiled with twice the amount of water, the polyphenols dissolved in the soup will be locked in red beans unreservedly. However, the process of making bean paste is complex, and there is almost no soup in the end, so the heat and stirring need to be paid attention to.
let’s take a look at the sharing on NTV website in Japan. Bean paste with the same sweetness and red bean granules will make people feel sweeter. Because the machine was used to measure the chewing times of the experimenters, it was found that granular bean paste chewed more times. When chewing more times, saliva secretes more, and the granulated sugar of granular bean paste will dissolve in saliva, so it feels sweeter.
○ granular bean paste is easier to feel sweet, NTV
In addition, in the process of cooking red beans, sugar is added to make them sticky. Through the comparison of sugar added by 1, 0.5, 0.25 and 0 times the weight of red beans, it can be clearly seen that the bean paste with sugar will have the viscosity loved by everyone, and it will become loose without bean paste. Therefore, the proportion of granulated sugar can be adjusted according to the taste pursued.
○ comparison of bean paste with different sugar content, NTV
The bread looks delicious
after reading the above tips, we will enter the market application part. You don’t need to search hard to see a large number of bread mainly made of red bean elements (and fruit subclasses are not listed here for the time being) 👇
, launched thin skinned red bean bread. How exaggerated is it? You can see at a glance from the figure below. The side of the bread skin is almost translucent. 200g bread is almost filled with red beans. There are different types of bean paste to choose from. It is the Superman style in the store.
, , ○ real thin skin red bean bread, picture – enjoytokyo JP
provides a small French bag filled with red beans and butter, so that the aroma of French bread, the sweetness of red beans and the fragrance of butter can jointly create a style that makes diners extremely satisfied. The store also sells red bean paste and Hokkaido butter in a bread combination made only with milk.
○ Boulangerie Coron official
also sells only two kinds of toast, ordinary toast and red bean toast. Red bean toast is made by choosing the soup method to let the dough stand overnight. Complete red bean granules are added to the atmosphere. Combined with the use of yogurt and mascarpone cheese, it enhances the sweetness and flavor depth of red beans. It looks delicious. The next day, it is re roasted with large pieces of butter. It is greedy just looking at the picture.
○ red bean toast in high-end bakery, picture – Maruyama apricot
“zongjiayuan Jizhao nunnery” uses the dough planted by Lu bang, which is very moist. One of the red bean bread called “Matcha” is filled with red bean paste and mashed potato (the layer of mashed potato covered on the red bean paste can be clearly seen at the bottom of the figure) and wrapped in Matcha dough, which not only has rich flavor, but also adds a layer of taste experience to the addition of mashed potato.
○ tissue section of Matcha style, figure – Hanako tokyo
, the main is Danish crispy red bean bread, which uses Danish crispy dough to wrap all kinds of red bean sand and break the circle with one category. In addition to simple red bean paste, there are also a combination of bean paste + cream and bean paste + frozen butter, matched with original pastry or Matcha pastry, which makes people eager to try.
○ Danish crispy red bean bread, figure -oyakudachi3 com
The Japanese Red Bean Association (non-governmental organization) is also very interesting. It puts forward its mission to “achieve world peace through red bean paste”. At the same time, it is also actively planning more possibilities of red bean paste in food. Below are some pictures of their activities. You can see the taste combination and use method combination (filling / topping) of red bean paste in different baked goods.
○ application of red bean paste in baked goods, FIG. – Alic go. jp
The above is the main content shared in this issue ~
finally, add the current situation. Japan imports about 60000 tons of bean paste every year, accounting for one fifth of its total domestic consumption of bean paste, most of which comes from China. In 2016, the import volume from Canada exceeded once, but it still maintained the largest proportion of China’s import volume. Although red bean and red bean bread have a broad national base in Japan, according to the information of the research and Information Department of Japan agricultural and livestock industry commune, the consumption of bean paste in Japan is decreasing. Considering the super aging and population reduction faced by Japan, it is expected that the trend will continue, and the soybean paste orders received by Chinese factories from large Japanese companies will inevitably decrease in the long run.
○ the proportion of Japan’s bean paste imports, blue for China and red for Canada, figure – Alic go. jp
moreover, with the continuation of the epidemic, the flow of people has decreased, and the demand for souvenirs such as sightseeing, business trip and returning home has decreased. Hokkaido red beans (accounting for 95% of China) with the largest local production in Japan has also been affected, with a sharp decline in consumption and a considerable degree of downturn.
at the same time, the processing of bean paste in China is still developing well. According to a person in charge of China bread and pastry industry association, “every company is looking for differentiated products, and the development of red bean bread preferred by consumers seems to have made progress,” and mentioned that the new red bean culture is taking root in China.
in China, the application of red beans remains to be seen, but we do see that both Chinese and Western baking actively embrace red beans. Although there is no large-scale dispute over sweetness and saltiness, it is not so easy to popularize into Japan’s market share. After all, in China, baked goods are mostly used as snacks, which has not greatly shaken the position of traditional staple food.
reference: [1] bakery – takeguchi [2] cultural history of eating: the birth of red bean bread – Hu Chuan’an [3] Kimura House official website: nakamuraya Co. JP [4] のあぱん. 140 years, love, reason, reason- Foodie [5] trends in China – Alic go. JP [6]? Unexpected knowledge of “hokuren, Hokkaido bean” or. JP [8] science, 1195 [9] Xiaodou, Xiaodou, Xiaodou- muji. Net [10] New! Japan パリでどら焼きがブム!? なぜはあんこががきなの- jksearch. Info
Author: Mogu; Source: CIB Baking Technology Research Institute (ID: cibtcn), reprint authorized. Reprint authorization and media business cooperation: Amy (wechat: 13701559246); for the sixth consecutive year, foodaily released the annual business hot spot of the food industry – exploring the development law of categories from 200000 new products around the world, studying the changes of global consumption, studying the changes of new consumers and consumption demand in combination with the in-depth insight into the Chinese market, and exploring the new value brought by the two new consumption drivers of technology reconstruction and brand popularity, Focus on the prospective discovery of category cracks / innovative products to assist new consumer entrants in anchoring market segments and category fission opportunities, and provide inspiration and decision-making reference for product innovation in the next year. (click the picture to view the detailed introduction) related reading

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