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just like the phenomenon of “rice separation” (eating less rice) in Japan in recent years, the phenomenon of “separation from fruit” (separation from fruit) also exists. Behind it is the impact of Western food culture, which also suggests the contradiction between heganzi rooted in traditional culture and modern life. The high sweetness and relatively single raw materials of
and fruit, the traditional aesthetics in modeling, and the close combination with traditional festivals and lifestyles have created a distance from the lives and preferences of modern people, especially young people.
thus, on one side is the persistence of tradition and fruit, on the other side, new and fruit also appear one after another, continuing the life of hefruit in two ways. From the innovation of heganzi, we may also get some inspiration about new Chinese dim sum.
there are five systems for the establishment of heganzi. Among them, the oldest is the “wooden fruit”, also known as “natural fruit”, which can be traced back to the rope text era, that is, the fruit of unprocessed plants and trees, such as fruits or nuts.
at the beginning of the 7th century, ② “Tang fruit” was introduced from China. With the introduction of new ingredients and processing methods, the real “fruit” as a processed food was formed.
Tang fruits are mostly made of rice flour, wheat flour and other grain flour as raw materials, which are shaped and fried. At present, “Tang fruit” is mainly used as a sacrifice in front of God and Buddha, which has been rarely seen in people’s daily life. However, ③ “cake” and “cuzi” produced by the influence of “Tang fruit” have become the basis of harmony fruit since then.
“cake” is often translated into Chinese as New Year cake, while “Jizi” is translated into dumplings. The two are mainly distinguished by shape, and the raw materials are grains such as rice, wheat or millet.
to the end of Kamakura era (14th century), Chinese ④ dim sum was introduced into Japan by Zen monks, including steamed bread filled with meat and mutton soup. Because monks banned meat, they replaced it with red beans, forming Japanese tea “steamed bread” and “mutton soup”.
in the Warring States period (15th ~ 16th century), Japan began to communicate with Western European countries. The so-called ⑤ “Nanman fruit” which used granulated sugar and eggs in production was introduced, including Nagasaki cake, Jinping sugar, Pingtang, etc.
before that, the sweetness in the fruit mostly came from Caramel made of honey and grain or syrup made of plants such as Pueraria. Until then, the granulated sugar was intermittently imported into Japan through Portuguese merchant ships. In the subsequent Edo era (17th-19th century), with the increase of imports and the development of domestic sugar industry, granulated sugar, once regarded as a high-grade product, also entered ordinary people’s homes, and the “sweet” feature of fruit was further established.
inherited the above five systems, and hekozi developed rapidly in the Edo era. Most of hekozi we can see now were born at this time. On the one hand, this is due to long-term peace and stability and economic development. On the other hand, it also benefits from the exchanges and competition between the two major cultural centers of Kyoto and Edo.
among them, “jingkoko” in Kyoto is divided into “Luozhong” and “luowaixing”. Based on the elegant public culture (which can be understood as Japanese court culture) and tea ceremony culture, Luozhong pursues the five senses of Koko, namely taste, smell, touch, vision and hearing (referring to the name of Koko), and pays attention to the combination with Japanese classical literature, history, customs and nature, It can be said that it has laid the aesthetic tone of heganzi. “Luowaixing” is more civilian, mainly combined with local traditional festivals and beliefs.
in addition, the “shangkoko” born in Edo (distinguished from the cheap “yukoko”) combines the martial culture and is more simple, so it is widely loved by warriors and civilians.
of course, the two are not completely incompatible. By combining the raw materials and preparation methods of “foreign fruit”, the so-called “foreign compromise fruit” was born, which is typical of red bean bread. However, in modern times, with the progress of internationalization, the boundary between “hekozi” and “foreign kozi” is gradually blurred. Just like the emergence of “foreign style and food” and “Hefeng and foreign food”, foreign style and kozi with foreign kozi elements and “Hefeng and foreign kozi” with hekozi elements also appear one after another, showing a highly diverse situation.
and basic classification of fruits
raw fruit can be further divided into cakes (cakes), steamed goods (steamed goods), burnt goods (steamed goods), liquid goods (liquid goods), refined goods (refined goods) and fried goods (raised goods) according to the preparation method.
the cake is made of rice or rice flour by tamping or kneading; Steaming, burning and frying are processed by steaming, baking and frying respectively; If the fluid is like sheep soup, add coagulants such as cold weather to set the mold; The training material is mainly made of white bean sand, sugar and glutinous rice powder. It is especially diverse in shape.
among them, red bean stuffing is the main ingredient, which can maximize the flavor of the stuffing. For example, stone coating is made by wrapping a thin layer of sugar coating on the red bean stuffing; Gangwu combines different ingredients without heating. In addition to the most mentioned above, there is also a kind of fruit called Zhoubang and fruit, which is similar to domestic bean sugar. It is made by adding water malt into cooked soybean powder; As for the burning, flowing and refining materials, they are basically the same as the relevant classifications in raw fruits, with the difference only in the water content.
. As for dry fruits, according to the preparation method, they can be divided into beating materials (beating materials), pressing materials (holding materials), hanging materials (hanging materials), burning materials (materials), malt materials (materials) and explosives (materials).
beating and pressing materials are made of cooked grain flour as the main raw materials and pressed with wood mold. The difference is that the moisture content of the pressing material is slightly higher and the solubility in the mouth is better; Hanging objects adopt the method of hanging sugar or sugar stains, such as the one similar to domestic rice flower sugar (pronounced J ù n in Chinese) ǚ， Japanese pronunciation is おこしししおこしししおおここししししし; The classification of burnt and fried fruits is similar to that of raw and semi-raw fruits; Maltose is the main raw material of maltose.
in terms of preparation method, the process of processing grain into powder laid the foundation for the production of many fruits and fruits, which also came from the introduction of early Tang fruits. In addition, the emergence and extensive use of granulated sugar is also of great significance to the development of and fruit. In addition to providing pure sweetness, it can also be used as an adhesive in beating, pressing and hanging things, and provide color for burning things. It is also used in almost all and fruit, which can be traced back to the introduction of Nanman fruit.
however, even if it was formed under the influence of foreign culture, hotoko was established based on Japan’s own customs and humanities, which is why hotoko was prefixed with “harmony”.
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