China Food

How can my Shanghai Cafe “save itself” after losing 10000 a day

 
亏损、停摆,上海独立咖啡馆“自救”。

 


库存空了。4月26日晚,上海浦东新区的一栋封控楼内,猫哥被拉到了一个小群里。
拉他的是同小区的邻居咕咕,两人并不相识,现在他们有了共同的目标:团咖啡。
3月中旬封控,迄今第41天,猫哥在短短一个多月时间里,认识了过去两年几乎0接触的大多数邻居。起初是分享生存物资,封控来得突然,同栋楼的人们靠“相互救济”度过了头俩礼拜的艰难时期,“后来演变成分各种东西,我把备着的咖啡豆也拿出来分了。”
直到4月底,猫哥的咖啡豆消耗一空,遇上了在大群里提议团咖啡的咕咕。
上海人爱喝咖啡,如今已经不是什么秘密。此前,#上海 我要喝咖啡啊#登上热搜第一,热度超3亿,有网友评论上海的咖啡老炮儿:“血液里都流淌着阿拉比卡的清香”。
在上海,淮海中路从头走到尾,你能看到49家咖啡馆,南京西路则有41家;枫泾路平均每100米能路过5家咖啡馆。时至今日,小红书上,#教上海人做咖啡#的笔记已经超过4万篇,Manner、Seesaw等咖啡品牌也在各个社交平台主动传递出咖啡团购的讯息。
The group buying information on the content platform,
head of coffee beans, a quietly emerging role, has gradually become active. Goo Goo is a new coffee group leader. His coffee group quickly gathered 195 people in three days. Brother cat became the assistant of the group leader. He opened the group at 11 a.m. and gathered at 3 p.m. The enthusiastic demand of consumers is transmitted to the supply side, so that coffee brands can see hope. Under the
epidemic, Shanghai coffee has gradually become the epitome of the city and people moving forward hand in hand. According to the data of
Shanghai coffee consumption index, by the end of 2020, 35.08% of the business structure of Shanghai cafes were chain cafes and 55.88% were boutique cafes or small and micro cafes. As the city with the largest number of cafes in the world, more than 8000 cafes, large and small, are scattered in Shanghai. At this time, it is also experiencing the most difficult period.
stores cannot be opened. Rent and manpower are hard expenses. What is more difficult to solve is supply and logistics – March May is the new production season of coffee beans. In the past, coffee beans from all coffee producing areas around the world were unloaded at Shanghai port and then covered the national market. The industry has been shut down. From upstream coffee producers, midstream product processing plants and coffee roasters to downstream cafes and consumers, they are facing their own anxiety, but show surprising resilience.
open group buying, online, waiting to be unsealed, life is not stagnant, and a cup of coffee is exerting its magical power.
I’m in Shanghai. Brother cat is a post-95 man who is engaged in the financial industry in Shanghai.
in his opinion, Shanghai people drink coffee in two situations: one is the unique influence of urban culture, and drinking coffee is caused by habit. Small cafes with different characteristics in Shanghai are important scenes for young people to make friends; The other is the demand of work. Coffee can refresh and relieve fatigue. “Take our industry for example. There is a lot of work pressure. It is exaggerated to drink two or three cups of coffee a day to ‘prolong life’.”
in comparison, cat brother is not the group with heavy demand for coffee, but he understands this demand.
“after home isolation, we still need to deal with work and daily life. Sometimes the pace is faster.” Helping group coffee has become an alternative way for brother cat to decompress. “The ability of organization and coordination in the process of group buying, the sense of achievement that can help others, and the communication and communication outside of work are all valuable to me now.”
The epidemic has disrupted people’s pace of life, but the cat brother who came to Shanghai for more than two years has felt the warmth of his neighbors in the sharing of materials. Brother cat and Goo Goo are both free and spontaneous community leaders. At first, they didn’t have a channel for group coffee. However, with the resumption of some enterprises, various coffee brands began to help themselves by actively sending out group buying messages on xiaohongshu, Tiktok, etc.
Goo Goo originally opened seesaw’s coffee ball, including coffee beans, coffee liquid, freeze-dried powder, etc., but this ball was not successful. “Seesaw’s starting price is 2500 yuan, but there is also an invisible condition for the actual delivery, which is that we are required to purchase 40 copies of a single item. When we get more than 30 copies in the group, the other party says there is no goods.” Seesaw briefly became the “scum man” in the hearts of coffee friends. Cat brother then suggested to open manner’s group and send 20 copies from now on, but it needs an additional 300 yuan distribution fee.
different delivery requirements have pushed up the overall cost, but the prices of various coffee brands have remained at a normal or even slightly preferential level. Taking manner as an example, it provides consumers with eight packages, of which 1kg of Italian coffee beans are priced at 300 yuan, while the price of its tmall flagship store is 75 yuan / 250g, and the price range is completely consistent with the former.
The manner optional package
sent by brother cat “entered the group on the 26th. After the first wave failed, the second manner group opened quickly. The order was placed at more than 4 p.m. on the 27th, and it was sent to the door of the community at more than 9 p.m. and it was delivered by the goods Lala.” Cat brother told “e-commerce online”. In just three days, there were three groups in the group. After the first seesaw group failed, he tried again. “This time it’s about 30 shares. Goo Goo just paid the remaining 10 shares first.” From collecting information, confirming orders, contacting and delivering goods, to delivering them to the community and distributing them to each building, compared with other leaders, coffee leaders are relatively relaxed, but they provide life rather than just the value of survival.
“we can’t say that this thing is not a necessity for anyone, but a necessity for everyone. Everyone is different. For example, if you are from Sichuan today, you may have to buy hot-pot/" 22375 rel="nofollow" target="_self">hot pot seasoning, which is closely related to the city’s economy and culture. In Shanghai, coffee is a very prosperous industry with a stable customer base.” At first, it was to solve personal needs, and then the neighbors helped each other. After May Day, a self-employed coffee brand xiaohongshu found brother Mao and goo, “small entity enterprises are more difficult. Now we can help them a little, a little, and do some expansion.”
Self rescue information released by cat brother help brand
Forced interruption of supply chain
in the coffee industry chain, consumers and cafes are the end, and the upstream is also connected with raw coffee bean merchants, coffee roasters and product processing plants… Consumers mainly worry about how to buy, but each role in the chain faces different anxieties.
coffee buff, a fine coffee baking brand established in March last year, mainly produces coffee beans. Among them, the situation of raw coffee beans and cooked coffee beans is different. “Our warehouse is in Pudong. Generally speaking, we will prepare goods for 3-5 days, because the best tasting period of roasted coffee beans is 7-15 days. Customers will mind if it exceeds 15 days.” Yang Yifan, one of the founders of coffee buff, told e-commerce online that even after unsealing, the batch of cooked beans could not be delivered, which was a hard loss, but it was not the most worrying problem. Before the
epidemic, coffee buff was preparing his first offline store. Different from the scale of dozens of chain coffee stores, the offline stores of boutique coffee pay more attention to experience and service, and the revenue mainly depends on the b-end business. At present, coffee buff cooperates with nearly 100 b-end businesses, all of which are coffee shops and baristas scattered all over the country, of which more than 80% are not in Shanghai. “We can’t deliver goods here, but customers in other regions are still operating normally. Some customers need hundreds of kilograms of coffee beans a month. If it takes a long time, we will worry that they will find other suppliers.”
In addition, the preservation time of raw beans is longer than that of cooked beans, but the industry generally gives priority to seasonal beans. March May is the new production season of coffee beans. After this time, the beans in the warehouse will become out of season beans, and it is difficult to sell them to new customers. This is also the main problem faced by all raw bean merchants and bakers in Shanghai: supply and circulation.
T12 opened Taobao store as early as 2015, and then launched its own small program. Previously, online revenue accounted for 20-30%, and almost 100% came from online after the epidemic. Figo, one of the founders of T12, told e-commerce online that “the offline stores of T12 lose about 10000 yuan a day when they are not open, of which about 60-70% is the labor cost of employees.” Fortunately, T12’s cooperative factory is in Ningbo and the e-commerce team is in Hangzhou, which makes online delivery work normally.
“Our main problem is that it’s difficult to deliver the goods to Shanghai. Normally, we bake a batch of coffee beans in Ningbo and ship them to Shanghai every 2-3 days. In order to ensure the taste, we can’t sell the coffee beans to customers after baking for a certain period of time. At that time, we didn’t expect that the sealing and control meeting would be so long, so the Shanghai store only prepared the goods for about 5 days and sold them out by flash delivery on April 3. We can still deliver the goods from Hangzhou online, but many customers don’t like it Know this, so online orders are actually nearly half less. ”
To be exact, coffee buff and T12 belong to coffee roasters. The upper reaches of roasters are raw bean roasters and the middle reaches are processing plants. The new production season is also the time for coffee beans from all over the world to be transported to various countries. Raw bean traders need to use these samples to determine the business content of the next year. However, Shanghai is China’s largest coffee import province. Raw bean traders can’t get the imported beans and will also fall into the chain reaction of supply anxiety. Moreover, the sales of various coffee beans are scattered, and the downstream takes small batches for many times. The beans in Panama, Colombia and Brazil may be supplied by different raw bean manufacturers, which makes it more difficult to adjust and integrate the supply chain.
Store
flower shops, bookstores and coffee shops of coffee brands were once regarded as the three major losers of literary and artistic youth. As early as 2016, the average closure rate of cafes in major cities across the country reached 18%, and the closure rate of enterprises engaged in coffee service industry was as high as 83% in 2020.
especially in Shanghai, high-quality coffee is gathered – in 1982, the American high-quality coffee association SCAA was officially established. Coffee beans are scientifically and systematically graded. Coffee beans with a score of more than 80 points (out of 100 points) are classified as “high-quality coffee”. Compared with traditional catering, boutique coffee pays more attention to the unique flavor of each coffee and the skills and style of baristas.
for coffee bosses in Shanghai, feelings are more indispensable than business. After the interruption of the supply chain, coffee people are anxious and uneasy, but different from external expectations, brands that have operated for many years still have great confidence in restoring business.
“when the first epidemic came in 2019, there had been a wave of reshuffle in the industry, and many small brands did not survive at that time. Under the situation of this year, large brands with long operation time and more sufficient funds are still more favorable and more likely to survive.” Fox, a partner of T12, believes that whether the anti risk ability and brand positioning are clear is very important at this stage. “On the one hand, your sales channels are diversified online and offline, with stronger anti risk ability; on the other hand, whether your product ability is excellent, even if there is no expanded brand, if the customer loyalty is high, the recovery speed will be faster after the market restart.”
in other words, the confidence of high-quality coffee makers who dig deep into the moat with unique flavor products and skills comes from old customers who have operated for many years. This sentiment comes from both the determined taste and the warm wind from the industry: on March 29, Shanghai issued several policies and measures to fight the epidemic and help enterprises promote development, which mentioned that Shanghai will expand the scope of rent reduction from the service industry to cover small and micro enterprises and individual industrial and commercial households in all industries, and encourage various market operators such as large commercial buildings, shopping malls and parks on the basis of negotiation, Appropriate rent reduction and exemption for tenants engaged in entity operation, and various government support policies give priority to market entities that take the initiative to reduce and exempt rent; On April 24, Taobao tmall released the 2022 coffee merchant support plan, which is expected to incubate more than 50 million new coffee brands with a scale of more than 10 million within one year. The plan will be aimed at 90000 offline cafes, bakeries, overseas imported coffee traders and new coffee merchants willing to start businesses on Taobao platform. The former determines the hard cost of coffee shop rent, while the latter releases the ability of coffee supply and performance.
since April, the founder and operation team of coffee brand have been busy. Yang Yifan was in his hometown Luoyang, racing against time to measure some raw beans. “First get the samples, start testing and get all the products ready. After we unpack, we can quickly update them. This month, our designers are also at home to optimize the main and detailed drawings of all our Taobao stores. In April, we also did online activities, but all orders placed during our blockade will be given gifts, which is a compensation. I hope customers can wait patiently for some time.” Yang Yifan also has an identity as the judge of the world barista competition in China and the KOL of the industry. Now she also puts her own media creation and some communication work on the agenda.
T12则干脆将脚步慢下来,重心聚焦到产品和供应链的稳定和完善上。
“我们上游的工厂资源其实非常丰富,但每个工厂有不同的规定。”Fox解释,精品咖啡事实上是一个很难被完全标准化的品类。种植环境、气候、处理方法等因素都会影响生豆的产量和品质,还有后续的生豆运输、仓储条件、烘焙工艺、吧台出品……任何一个环节出错,都有可能让一杯精品咖啡失去魅力。“也因此,规模和品质往往会有一个平衡点。我们认为一个品牌的生命力不仅仅是空间上的拓展,更多的也是时间上的延续。”
无论是开咖啡团、布局线上,还是回归供应链,都是咖啡品牌们选择的不同方向。
在上海,与其说咖啡是商业消费,不如说它已经成为一种文化气质。在特殊时期,想喝咖啡无可厚非,毕竟人在满足温饱的同时,也离不开精神需求。而对于咖啡品牌也好,消费者也罢,焦虑虽然依旧存在,但对未来发展的信心从未失去。就像那个感动到Figo和Fox的微小细节,“只要看到你们的咖啡馆还在,就会觉得是一种希望”——这或许,已经早已超出消费者的范畴,而是来自一个城市居民,对一个行业和品牌的最高赞赏。
作者:王亚琪;来源:电商在线(ID:dianshangmj),转载已获得授权。
转载授权及媒体商务合作:Amy(微信号:13701559246);
加入社群:Cherry(微信号:18261804307)。


相关阅读



食品人都“在看”

Read the original text

Similar Posts

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.