China Food

Net red light food, I Yue

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light food, you can’t see it, you can understand it.
 
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Text: Xie Wuji

Source:)

 
Summer is the peak period for urban people to lose weight. The concepts of light food and fitness meals have long been popular in cities.
In the circle of friends, there are always some urban office workers who will show their light meals. They have a high appearance and look healthy. But the copywriter at the bottom always has a slight sadness – “eat grass again today”.
This kind of middle-class Versailles has been questioned recently. Recently, an urban beauty from Shanghai wrote that it costs 150 yuan to eat a light food salad in Shanghai, and the picture is really shabby. However, there are only four pieces of salmon, and there are “green belts” under them.
How expensive is it to eat light food salad in Shanghai/ Microblog screenshot
This roast has also been resonated by many urban white-collar workers in Shanghai. There are not a few salads with a price of about 100 yuan on the take out platform. There are also salads with a price of 25 yuan / 100g, which is equivalent to 125 yuan per kilogram. It seems that it is not easy for white-collar workers to show off a delicious and fat reducing meal.
It’s expensive and bad to eat. There are more terrible things. Recently, on station B, a video of secretly interviewing the fitness food with the largest sales volume of takeout became popular. The insider Inspection Bureau secretly visited the back kitchen of this takeout restaurant and found that the environment was dirty and messy——
The table top is littered with peels that have not been cleaned in time, the ground is littered with discarded vegetable leaves, the chicken breast is still placed under the sewage pool, and the boiled eggs are still near the sewer. The picture is full of moldy and rotten broccoli, seemingly stale tomatoes, and rotten pasta… If you haven’t had lunch, it’s recommended not to watch the video. Every frame may break your psychological defense.
The back kitchen of this online popular light food delivery shop breaks through your psychological defense every minute/ Station B
If it weren’t for the secret interview, you would probably be attracted by the take out page of this online popular light food restaurant. The pictures are good in appearance and have sold more than ten thousand a month.
Under the video, many netizens claimed that they had the right to speak. Once he ate fitness meals for one or two months in order to lose weight. Finally, he was admitted to the hospital directly because of food poisoning and gastroenteritis. One of the netizens hit the nail on the head and joked: “fitness is to exercise muscles, and fitness meals are to exercise the stomach.”
These days, the middle-class white-collar workers are very difficult. They have no choice but to choose expensive and tasteless options, and they have to withstand the challenges of the stomach and intestines. From the popularity of the online red light food to the current, the voices of doubt are rising one after another. What has it experienced?
More and more light food takeout has been exposed to food safety problems/ Microblog screenshot
Net red light food, who says it can reduce weight?
When we talk about online red light food, we subconsciously associate it with such words as “fat reduction”, “grass eating” and “low calorie”. Most of the light food in the market are “high appearance and low calorie”, but it is difficult for people to have an appetite if they really eat well.
For the inertia logic of light food, it has long been known that health is equal to bad food
Take another look at the starchy staple food. Purple rice, brown rice and buckwheat noodles appear more frequently. In fact, these calories are not necessarily lower than ordinary rice. Such trendy food materials as quinoa, chickpea and red kidney beans are good-looking but not cost-effective.
A light meal can have a lot of red kidney beans/ unsplash
The last point is of course the sauce, which is the most easily overlooked “heat bearing”.
Most of the sauces used for light food takeout are high in fat, sugar and calories. It has been tested that the heat of 30 grams of ordinary salad dressing bags is about 190 kcal. Two small bags are equivalent to catching up with the heat of a bowl of rice. But how can we not use soy sauce to flavor raw vegetables that are hard to swallow?
Light soy sauce is the heat.
The light food restaurant is also full of heat traps.
When you see the colorful menu, you will find the mixed flavors of different fruits, “low calorie roasted chicken breast avocado quinoa”, “low calorie 0-fat apple juice”, etc. these light food names sound very beautiful, but the truth has long been hidden: fruit juice can not replace fresh fruit. After being squeezed into juice, the sugar rises faster and sells more expensive.
Moreover, light meals are mainly raw and cold food, which is a challenge for people with weak digestive ability.
But even if the hygiene standard of low bacteria is acceptable, when you eat a light meal, you can’t help but suffer from this meal. You will have to eat a better meal to compensate for it. If you go through this cycle, can you still lose weight? I can’t believe you.
Will Chinese light food be the future trend?
From the popularity of online celebrity petty bourgeoisie to the question of IQ tax due to acclimatization, the decline of light food has something to do with the middle class in every city.
Tracing back to the concept of “light food”, its origin has the meaning of middle-class petty bourgeoisie. In the 17th century, the afternoon tea of Britain’s upper class society was introduced to France. Later, it was simplified. All kinds of bread were made into sandwich like food, accompanied by black tea and coffee.
This kind of snack food trend is also the rudiment of light food. Later, it was spread to all parts of the world and combined with local food habits to form light food doctrine, which itself means “simple and light food”.
Light meals originated in Europe. Salads and sandwiches are common forms.
In addition, with the emergence of organic food, vegetarian restaurants and other food trends, light food can even become a healthy diet that advocates nutrition regulation and yearns for harmony between human and nature.
The popularity of the light food doctrine in China is inseparable from the pursuit of the urban middle class, especially the fitness groups.
Light food is not only a kind of diet, but also represents a healthy and organic life concept. This new life concept is different from the traditional Chinese diet, and is more popular with middle-class white-collar workers in cities.
Every fitness guru can’t escape the light meals that are sweeping in/ Video screenshot
According to Chinese Nutrition
Shaye light food, which specializes in Western-style light food, has introduced improved light food categories such as coarse grain rice, light food porridge and burrito. This summer, a number of catering brands specializing in Chinese light food, such as paddy rice flavor and light grain house, have emerged. Buckwheat noodles, hot vegetables, black pepper beef, apricot abalone mushrooms, fried oil wheat vegetables, and coarse grain shrimp have become their signature dishes.
In fact, the trend of Chinese light food began to rise as early as last summer. Shaxian snacks have also led the trend of fat reducing meals on social platforms. Northeast light food represents “dipping pickles”, which has also caused the popularity of netizens.
Northeast dip pickles, the top stream of Chinese light food/ youtube
The most obvious difference of this kind of Chinese light food is that it adds traditional Chinese cooking methods such as stir frying, blanching, and steaming. This will be more friendly to the intestines and stomachs of most Chinese people, and it will also be more national in taste. The dishes are no longer single, breaking the inertial barrier that light food is equal to “not enough to eat”.
The concept of “Chinese light food” was introduced into the light food track, which just filled the demand gap of Western light food represented by salad.
As an imported product, even though light food has been in the domestic consumer market for nearly ten years, it is still unaccustomed to the “Chinese stomach” which likes frying, stir frying and other cooking methods.
Who would be willing to be a “grass eater” if it were not for the necessity?
Will Chinese light food become the future trend of light food in China? This problem may have to wait and see.
This popular trend is followed by the thinking of “light food”. Perhaps it is more important. Since our Chinese cooking has long had our thinking of low calorie, low salt, low sugar, but high nutrition and balanced and diversified collocation, why do we have to eat lettuce and chicken breast?
At the beginning of the article, there was an extremely ironic remark on the introduction column of the store with 9999 + takeout sales: “a store selling health and creativity”. Now “health” has become a cheap label that can be copied and pasted, which is really sad.
The significance of reducing fat and eating light meals is to advocate a light and happy lifestyle through a healthy and reasonable diet. Why should we eat grass to make our hearts suffer?
This article is reproduced from the wechat official account (ID: New Weekly) of new weekly with authorization. New weekly was founded on August 18, 1996. With the positioning of “China’s latest lifestyle weekly”, it has measured the temperature of the times with a cutting-edge attitude for more than 20 years. From magazines to new media, new weekly continues to look for our common pain points, tears and laughter points. Follow the wechat official account of new weekly and live with you in an attitude. Official Weibo @ New Weekly.
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Net red light food, I Yue
网红轻食更符合当下“颜值经济”的社交需求,据统计,在小红书上关于轻食的分享和教学笔记就超过60万篇。
小红书上一搜轻食餐,教程帖、分享帖一堆。/截图
然而树大招风,风光无两的轻食消费市场,很快就遭到了洗牌危机。
被称为“轻食网红鼻祖”的新元素在去年12月宣布破产,轻食餐饮连锁Wagas也屡次传出寻求出售的消息。
两位初代轻食网红品牌的退场,让人一度以为轻食市场快要凉凉。
这当然跟疫情不无关系。据统计,2020年全国轻食门店关店3985家,开店达5792家,相比之下,线上数据增长得更多,据美团外卖数据显示,2020年下半年,轻食外卖订单同比增长50%,同期在线的轻食商家数量同比增长29%。
轻食商家数量依旧在增长。/天眼查
但轻食行业的关店潮也不能完全归咎于疫情。
论巅峰时期来说,它早就不如以前,随着越来越多轻食品牌入局,轻食品类越发单一,模式简单、入局门槛低的同时,就容易导致品牌质量参差不齐,而且健康概念一直备受争议,在追求健康和性价比之间,似乎总隔着一道迈不开的鸿沟。
眼下,一种新型的轻食风潮正在冒头,悄然占据低卡类食品的位置——“中式轻食”。
年初在盒马鲜生,就有“土豆泥蔬菜沙拉”“椒麻牛肉沙拉”“葱油什锦沙拉”、魔芋凉皮等等新面孔,简直成了“升级版的大拌菜”。
麻辣香锅、麻辣烫这类常见的中餐也申请加入战局。/微博截图
专攻西式轻食餐的沙野轻食,迎风陆续推出了杂粮饭、轻食粥、卷饼等改良轻食品类,今年夏天还涌现了一批像谷稻香、轻谷屋等一众专门做中式轻食的餐饮品牌,荞麦面、热菜黑椒牛肉杏鲍菇、清炒油麦菜、粗粮虾仁等成了他们的招牌菜。
其实,中式轻食的风潮早在去年夏天就有兴起苗头,沙县小吃也曾在社交平台上引领了减脂餐的潮流,东北风轻食代表“蘸酱菜”,也曾引起网友减脂必备的流行。
东北蘸酱菜,中式轻食的顶流。/youtube
这类中式轻食最明显的不同在于加入了清炒、白焯、清蒸等传统中式的烹饪方式,这对于国人大部分的肠胃来说会更友好,在口味上也更有国民度,菜品不再单一,打破了轻食约等于“吃不饱”的惯性壁垒。
“中式轻食”的概念被引入轻食赛道,这也刚好填补了原本以沙拉为代表的西式轻食的需求空缺。
作为一种舶来品,轻食在国内消费市场就算走过了快十年,对于喜欢煎炸、爆炒等烹饪方式的“中国胃”来说,它依旧水土不服。
要不是迫不得已,谁会心甘情愿做“吃草族”?
到底中式轻食会不会成为轻食在国内未来的趋势?这问题或许还得再观望。
这流行趋势随之而来对于“轻食”的思考,或许来得更加重要——既然我们中式烹饪里早有我们对于低热量、低盐、低糖但又高营养和均衡多样的搭配思路,那何必要生无可恋地啃生菜嚼鸡胸肉呢?
文章开头被曝光的那个外卖销量9999+的店家,介绍栏上有一句极为讽刺的话“一家贩卖健康与创意的店”,如今“健康”变成了能复制粘贴的廉价标签,实在让人唏嘘。
减脂轻食餐的意义,到底还是通过一种健康合理的饮食方式,主张一种轻便快乐的生活方式,那何必要“吃草”来让内心遭罪呢?

本文经授权转载自《新周刊》微信公众号(ID:new-weekly)。《新周刊》创刊于1996年8月18日,以“中国最新锐的生活方式周刊”为定位,20多年来用新锐态度测量时代体温。从杂志到新媒体,《新周刊》继续寻找你我共同的痛点、泪点与笑点。关注新周刊微信公众号,与你一起有态度地生活。官方微博@新周刊。

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